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Oil changing help

12K views 18 replies 11 participants last post by  joebrez 
#1 ·
Got a question for you folks that have had your MKC for a while.
I have had mine about a month.
I called my and told them I wanted to schedule for an oil and filter change next week, at approx 1200 miles on the odometer.
They didn't understand why I don't want a wash and tire rotation...at that mileage,:confused::(

I ask what oil they use...5w30 Motorcraft synthetic blend.

Is that what you guys use?

I told them I want to come back at 6000 miles and change again, then at 13,5000 miles and change to full synthetic,
He said I really should stay at every 5000 miles and the syn blend.

I always change over to full synthetic after 10,000 miles , then every 7500 .
My Mazda CX5 2.5 , 4 cyl,(non turbo) used 0w20, full syn, from day one.
After 30,000 I used Mobil 1 extreme, and ran 14,000 between changes . No problems.

I would think that my MKC 2.0 Turbo would benefit from full synthetic, as it does not burn from the high turbo heat.

What do you guys think?
What should I do?



Jim
 
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#3 ·
I use Mobil-1 and Motorcraft filters. I change my oil every 5000 miles or annually (whichever comes first).
I think my $46,000 vehicle deserves it! You'll get all kinds of opinions on this, but it's your car, and your money. Let your conscious be your guide.
 
#4 ·
Do you use 5w30 FULL syn?
or the blend oil?

I have read many articles about using full syn is best for turbo's.

I use full syn in my Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel, Rotella T6 15w40.....runs great ....no problems.

I WILL switch to Full Syn after 10,000 miles.



Jim
 
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#5 ·
I change the oil every 16,000 km (as recommended in the service maintenance) or when the oil life indicator tells me to...whichever comes first. When Lincoln was paying for the oil changes, I used whatever oil the dealer used. Now that I have to pay for the oil changes, I just use regular oil.
 
#6 ·
I have not done an oil change yet but I plan to run 7000 miles or no more than 10 months. People can get their oil tested to see how much life is left - if they wish to max out their oil life (sometimes up to 15k on synthetic) ... but this doesn't mean the filter can survive that mileage. Once the filter is clogged or goes bad... the oil just goes through the bypass valve and the filter is no longer doing it's job. Then the oil's impurities can do damage even if it's still 'good'. So we can all preach mileage for oil but you need a good quality filter (and Fram is no longer good. Look online and you'll see youtube reviews and tests.) Wix is said to be good.
Many many moons ago (about 30 years ago) my ex-girlfriend's father would replace his oil filter after 4k miles and leave the oil in about twice as long as we normally would. Maybe he knew more than the rest of us - he never had any engine issues (burn oil, or failures).
Part two of my 2 cents... My mechanical engineer friend (for the automotive industry) which got over 240k on his ford (no engine problems) before getting something new. He put one quart of synthetic in and the rest conventional. He said the one quart of synthetic had enough lubricate which is near equal to running 100% synthetic in the engine. I did this with my 4Runner and had no issues but this bring this to my final comment = I (and probably you) never own a vehicle long enough to have an engine fail (due to oil change intervals).
 
#7 ·
Thats a valid point about not owning the car long enough to experience an engine failure due to the oil changing process.

But, I still want to change it properly, and use the best quality oils, and filters, .....just in case my financial ability should change....and I am forced to keep it for many years past what I planned.

Also , 30 years ago, not so many cars had a turbo charger on the the engine, and I know(from running a Turbo Cummins engine) that much higher temps are generated at the Turbo, and that it may fry the petro oils,
where the synthetics withstand such temps.

So....yeah...it cost a little more for Syn oil, and a better filter...but I sleep better, and have not lost anything (a few bucks maybe) , and can stretch the change intervals.

I'v always been accused of overkill...on ost everything I undertake...

Just spoutin off out loud.. :)


Jim
 
#8 ·
Oh btw,

I have been using Wix filters , or NAPA Gold , for years,
Even my tractor and lawn cutting equipment,

I have never used Motorcraft anything,
and, I understand , that my dealer will be using Motorcraft oil and filters...

Is Motorcraft good quality?


Jim
 
#10 ·
Well, I tok the carvtoo the dealer tday for an oil and filter change.
a NON scheduled service at 1300 miles, so I paid for it.

They used Motorcraft Bend 5w30 oil, Motorcraft oil filter.
Cost me $33.34 ,
Woud have been $43.34, but I had an email reward of $10 from Lincoln.

So now I'm good till 6300 mies ...that will be a free change,with free tire ratation,
and car wash, which I refuse.


Im happy.:smile


Jim
 
#12 ·
John,
If you read up on direct injection engines -- You'll notice your engine is more likely to have problems or break down due to the build up of carbon in the inherited design of direct injection vs oil change intervals. Watch this youtube video - I recommend you jump to the 2:30 mark. it gets to the good part around 3:00 and at the 5 minute mark you'll see what I'm talking about.


Plus a place that sells oil for a profit even recommending not to do it so much
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/r/advice/car-maintenance/synthetic-oil-change-interval

and another article.
https://www.edmunds.com/car-news/tips-advice/stop-changing-your-oil.html
 
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#16 ·
VW never found a way to clean the build up. The problem is: nothing you put in your gas tank will get in contact with the build up. Sounds like you need to take the cover off to get to the top of valves. I think Ford/Lincoln sells something to clean it -- but it is probably 1-10% effective.
 
#17 ·
The best way to clean the back of you intake valves is to take of the intake manifold and spray an aluminum safe carbon solvent directly on the intake valves. Spray only the closed valves allow the solvent to soak. Vacuum out the solvent when done. Rotate the engine to do the other valves. After you are done change the engine oil.
 
#18 ·
Our MKC 2.3L had 28K miles when we bought it from a Toyota dealer. I asked what oil they used, they service all used vehicles, and was told it was full syn. They also had free service for the first year so when I took it in for the included oil change I confirmed that they used full syn. It seemed to be the norm for turbo engines at that dealer and their sister dealership next door which is a Ford/Lincoln dealer.

My F150 4.6L specs syn blend.
 
#19 ·
I use Amsoil Signature Series 5W30 and go by the oil life monitor (Document the %), which usually is about 6500-7000 miles. Amsoil's SS oil line is listed up to 25K.

I use Motorcraft Filters.

Used Oil Analysis's have been pretty clean and Blackstone has told me I'm changing it too soon. But it's under warranty, so I say safe.

IIRC the Manual says 10K for OCIs.
 
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