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I have a 2015 2.3 AWD. I have been stuck 4 mornings with a dead battery and the dealer still hasn't located the source.
Initially the dealer couldn't replicate the issue so I got the car back with a new modem (??) which apparently was on recall. The battery ran dead again, but this time I could hear the power liftgate continually cycling. The dealer replaced the liftgate module which stopped the cycling, but the battery still ran dead. They then gave me a new factory battery, but several days later, dead again.
The dealer is now saying that I have the keys too close (in the house) while the car is parked which is cycling the lock / unlock mechanism. I wouldn't expect 25 - 30 feet distance sufficient to be engaging the locks, nor do I notice any telltale light flashing. The dealer backs this up by claiming lock sensitivity was an issue on several 2015 models.

Anyone else experienced this?
 

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Yes I and many others have reported the same issue. There are a few causes. One of them is the perimeter lighting that comes on as you approach the vehicle. In order for it to recognize the FOB it is continually cycling to search for the signal. There is a TSB fix for this - 2 modules in the door (the rear passenger door actually) have to be replaced. If you do some searching on this forum, you will find a few other threads dealing with this dead battery issue.
 

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I have a 2015 2.3 AWD. I have been stuck 4 mornings with a dead battery and the dealer still hasn't located the source.
Initially the dealer couldn't replicate the issue so I got the car back with a new modem (??) which apparently was on recall. The battery ran dead again, but this time I could hear the power liftgate continually cycling. The dealer replaced the liftgate module which stopped the cycling, but the battery still ran dead. They then gave me a new factory battery, but several days later, dead again.
The dealer is now saying that I have the keys too close (in the house) while the car is parked which is cycling the lock / unlock mechanism. I wouldn't expect 25 - 30 feet distance sufficient to be engaging the locks, nor do I notice any telltale light flashing. The dealer backs this up by claiming lock sensitivity was an issue on several 2015 models.

Anyone else experienced this?
I had the same issue, I stopped using the LincolnWay app to start my car and I haven’t had any issues with the battery since!
 

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Has anyone had success with getting Lincoln to take back an MKC due to this issue? I need a reliable car. I've had it to the dealer 5 or 6 times for this issue (over a four year period). I don't know if they have done the TSB to replace the 2 modules, I'll have to ask my Service Tech. I've had three batteries so far, and now dead again. I'm done with this car.
 

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I hear you that would be crappy to deal with. A decent tech should be able to fix it fairly quickly. A buddy of mine is one of the senior techs and he told me how the find the problem circuit. It is really interesting they have a “brake out box” in place of the obd plug do constant monitoring of the car with the key off and can see what module will not stay asleep. But According to him one module that wakes up will wake every other module up on that circuit. No wonder this is such a problem with all the computers these cars have now
 

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I have a 2015 2.3 AWD. I have been stuck 4 mornings with a dead battery and the dealer still hasn't located the source. Initially the dealer couldn't replicate the issue so I got the car back with a new modem (??) which apparently was on recall. The battery ran dead again, but this time I could hear the power liftgate continually cycling. The dealer replaced the liftgate module which stopped the cycling, but the battery still ran dead. They then gave me a new factory battery, but several days later, dead again. The dealer is now saying that I have the keys too close (in the house) while the car is parked which is cycling the lock / unlock mechanism. I wouldn't expect 25 - 30 feet distance sufficient to be engaging the locks, nor do I notice any telltale light flashing. The dealer backs this up by claiming lock sensitivity was an issue on several 2015 models. Anyone else experienced this?
I have a 2015 2.0 MKC and have replaced the battery 5 times. I can't count the number of times I have had to jump it. Anyone else with these battery problems?
 

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I have a 2015 2.0 MKC and have replaced the battery 5 times. I can't count the number of times I have had to jump it. Anyone else with these battery problems?
Very common. Are you using AGM batteries. If it is dead within a couple days of not driving it after a fresh battery replacement You need service to find the drain. If it takes a year or so of driving after a battery replacement before you notice it is not starting in the morning, use a better battery. Interstate or Walmart AGM batteries are great but I ran an Exide AGM and never had any problems
 

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I have a 2015 2.3 AWD. I have been stuck 4 mornings with a dead battery and the dealer still hasn't located the source. Initially the dealer couldn't replicate the issue so I got the car back with a new modem (??) which apparently was on recall. The battery ran dead again, but this time I could hear the power liftgate continually cycling. The dealer replaced the liftgate module which stopped the cycling, but the battery still ran dead. They then gave me a new factory battery, but several days later, dead again. The dealer is now saying that I have the keys too close (in the house) while the car is parked which is cycling the lock / unlock mechanism. I wouldn't expect 25 - 30 feet distance sufficient to be engaging the locks, nor do I notice any telltale light flashing. The dealer backs this up by claiming lock sensitivity was an issue on several 2015 models. Anyone else experienced this?
Relatively simple to find the cause. Remove positive battery terminal. Hook volt meter to the connected terminal and the other to a ground. Read the voltage when the car is off. Should be zero or very low. If its say 2, 3 or 4 volts, you have an issue. With the meter still connected, remove fuzes, one at a time and note changes. Replace the fuze so you dont loose or mix up. Once youve found the offending circuit, you at least have an educated starting point. Good luck!
 

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Relatively simple to find the cause. Remove positive battery terminal. Hook volt meter to the connected terminal and the other to a ground. Read the voltage when the car is off. Should be zero or very low. If its say 2, 3 or 4 volts, you have an issue. With the meter still connected, remove fuzes, one at a time and note changes. Replace the fuze so you dont loose or mix up. Once youve found the offending circuit, you at least have an educated starting point. Good luck!
I wanted to add a little context to the above post. A simple drain can be found as described. Unfortunately, most of the drain issues that the MKC deal with are computer logic issues. Basically a module will aberrantly wake up every so many minutes or hours and then cause every other module to power up, when no communication is heard than they all shut back down. This is the reason I suggested finding a technician to find the drain because you will need to break apart each of the communication lines with a breakout box and then have a multiple channel oscilloscope record the data overnight and assess which communication line is activating. It gets very complex and above my understanding. I have a friend that is a Ford/Lincoln technician and explained it to me though.
 
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