Lincoln MKC Forum banner
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
299 Posts
In Columbus (bob boyd) the one with 90k miles?
Best advice (prior to purchase) go to Rob in service and ask him to pull up the service records. so you know all repairs done there or warranty work done.
2) see if new modem put in to use with app
3) use an OBDII reader to see if there are any codes.
4) listen for noise while going over pot holes. (mine had this issue)
5) have them update the software to the latest version for the center console.(if not already)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
299 Posts
6.) Negotiate in the cost of fluid changes including - oil - RDU - PTU.
Really great idea. Have them change the RDU & PTU fluid prior to purchase, along with brake fluid and might as well have them do the radiator fluid, too. Small price for them to do it to close the deal vs the cost to you if you paid the service center.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Expect some electrical gremlins to periodically show themselves after purchasing such as with the power liftgate.
Get a CarFax report if they don't provide one because not all dealers do. $40 wasted is better than tens of thousands of dollars.
Make sure the oil is normal and not frothy. It should be normal if it smells like gas since my '18 does. That's just how direct-injected engines are. The oil level may also be a little over the full mark due to gas diluting the oil which is why routine oil changes are important. All GDI engines I've owned do this, some more than others.
Make sure the transmission shifts normally.
Test out all electronics to make sure they work.
Have them check the battery and know when it was last replaced. All kinds of weird things happen when they start to go. If it goes into deep sleep mode frequently (infotainment display will show the message) that's a definite sign, especially if it does this 24 hours after driving, rather than say 2 weeks. With mine the airbag light came on and forward collision avoidance activated for no reason. Problems solved after replacing the battery with a nice AGM one (which I got them to pay for, but I bought CPO).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
In Columbus (bob boyd) the one with 90k miles?
Best advice (prior to purchase) go to Rob in service and ask him to pull up the service records. so you know all repairs done there or warranty work done.
2) see if new modem put in to use with app
3) use an OBDII reader to see if there are any codes.
4) listen for noise while going over pot holes. (mine had this issue)
5) have them update the software to the latest version for the center console.(if not already)
Do you know latest version number?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
All great suggestions people, thank you. I'm an estimator/admin at a cutting-edge body shop. I've been a detailer, mechanic, and a used car salesman (only briefly though, I started hating myself...there is nobody I loathe more than a used car salesman). So, I'm pretty good (and untrusting) at inspecting used cars.
The carfax helped a little. I don't see any entries for the first 2-3 years (it was a lease until 58k mi.), then a private owner took it in every 10k mi for "LINCOLN Priority Service", (synth oil) and various other minor things, then the dealer took it for the past year or so and did some stuff to it ...
I did manage to get the Lincoln service records for the past couple years, and I did the code scan and inspection on a lift at my shop... but MOST impressively, they let me have the car since Friday (still have it) for an overnight test drive. I have been driving it, inspecting every inch etc...
The results are that it's in GREAT shape for 90k mi (without being able to do more invasive engine/trans tests), it's not perfect, the paint is excellent, but needs polished, the driver seat cooling/heat not working, I hear the air, but it sounds like a hose just got disconnected maybe...The rear rotors have grooves but newer pads (all new in front). It's prob due for tune-up , but it runs very well (very very slight rough idle), transmission shifts perfectly, brakes good (despite rotors, will replace when necessary).
The vehicle drives straight and true, the suspension/steering feel tight (as these get) but I can't get past the tires. The biggest issue is that all four tires have cupping, and you can hear/feel it. I checked on the lift, and it's obvious by feel, they are shot. I know these guys are def. not going to buy $388 Perelli tires, and honestly, I don't want them. I don't like them (even without the cupping).
I also have challenging credit so I don't have many choices and have been searching for months, this has been the best condition and had everything on my wish list, so I may have to buy the tires (I get cheap through my job), but the dealer will do all the labor, including alignment and he said he was going to see what the Lincoln dealership will pitch in... Good idea on the fluid change, I'll see if I can get
him to throw some of them in. I know it just had syth oil change and some filters etc... And I have to ask about the programming. - I HOPE TO CALL HER MINE TOMORROW. -Thanks All
Wheel Car Tire Vehicle Automotive tire
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
299 Posts
slight rough idle might be the side effect of a direct injection and the build up of carbon.
Cupping might mean the suspension is aged.
I suggest pickup used rims (smaller than 20) and that will help you find cheaper tires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I
slight rough idle might be the side effect of a direct injection and the build up of carbon.
Cupping might mean the suspension is aged.
I suggest pickup used rims (smaller than 20) and that will help you find cheaper tires.
I'm not giving up the 20s, I love it the way it sits...but, are there any good $200 tires for these, lol? And yeah, my feeling about this vehicle is that the first "owner" (lease) didn't take care of anything except maybe the appearance, no tire rotations, rode on brake rivets, (hopefully they at least changed the oil)... Then "a hero came along" and took care of her. I've been looking for a car for months, everything I've been looking at has had worse problems, or not as nice. I can't find a better MKC (especially a black Reserve) in Ohio with less rust or that isn't $2k-$5k more on average. Even if I spend $2k on tires, I'm ahead of the game...my co-worker just spent more than my down payment on rims for his 2021 Supra, I gotta keep up, lol jk.
Car Wheel Vehicle Land vehicle Tire
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
I had really bad cupping on my 2015 when I picked it up at 39k. I drove on those shot tires for about a year before I scraped together the cash for a set of new Nokians (WGR4s). The good news in my case was that it totally changed the NVH qualities of the vehicle. I just cannot believe how much better it is now. It shows how new shoes make a huge difference where ride is concerned.

The heat feature on these seats take FOREVER to warm - so that may not actually have anything technically wrong with it - just a poor design. My cooled seats on the other hand work rather quickly.

You've got a nice looking unit there. Good luck on negotiating - tough time at the moment. Keep us posted on how you do.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
692 Posts
Both me and my dad‘s MKC deal with cupping tires on the back, more systematic tire rotations helps but I think there must be something to do with the way the car is built, we both had our cars aligned and found nothing was out of spec, once again if you keep the tires rotated at least for me and my dad that seems to slow down the cupping but it does occur in the back tires. My first set of tires (factory Michelins) were replaced at 23,000 miles and they were cupped badly. Although I never did rotate them and I have nothing but curvy roads so tires don’t last much more than 40,000 (at least with me driving)on a good tire down here.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bobfather

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Major bummer. The universe does not want me to have nice things. I'll try to make the long story short. My credit sucks from when I was young, never bothered to fix it... I get approved, with hefty terms that turned out to be more than was originally wrote for, but fine, I make decent money and I'll cancel Netflix...I then would have to buy tires @ $1250 (they would do labor/align) ...fine, still cheaper than other MKCs in my area, and this has EVERYTHING on my checklist, but tires wouldn't get installed until AFTER I signed, not so fine... I crunch the numbers; I'd end up paying $35k if I took the whole term to pay it off, and no warranty...not fine at all...They only would give the next synth oil change, which I think they do with every sale, and the tire labor...but after all that, in a moment of weakness (because this ride is pretty sweet) I head to the bank in her, to grab the down payment. I get to the teller, pull out my wallet, and my i.d. is gone. I lost it, searched everywhere, can't possibly understand where it went, it hasn't been out of my wallet for 2 years. I took it as a sign...Soooo, I get to the dealership, explain all that, and gave the car back. They were willing to hold the car until I got new id, but I just had to let her go. Was a very sad, but freeing moment. New plan, save for another year, pay cash.
Vehicle registration plate Automotive tail & brake light Tire Vehicle Car
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Sorry to hear that. Hope to see you back at some point.
I def. am a Lincoln man for life. Already have an "MKC jar". My goal is owning one in less than a year... P.S. The salesman, Jim, at Bob-Boyd Ford in Columbus, Ohio is a straight-up guy, he's a used car salesman, but one of the less terrible ones. He had Bob-Boyd Lincoln deliver the car to my shop (27mi), let me drive it for 4.5 days, then got me a ride back to my shop, even when I didn't buy the car. And didn't pressure me. Highly recommend. (If you HAVE to buy from a used car dealership).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
It would be nice if electric were more viable than hype right now. Perhaps one day the infrastructure and battery tech will catch up to the wish everyone has for the technology.

My requirements revolve around two things not yet possible. 1.) A charging network that is as easily accessible as the current petrol system. - and 2.) Batteries that can take a charge in an equivalent amount of time to fueling a ICE vehicle.

Those things are a LONG way off as far as I can see. For my needs electric just does not get me there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
299 Posts
TourGuide, My friend has a tesla and the 'fill up cycle' is charging at home (every night or twice a week I have no idea) but he never needs a independent station to charge unless he is on a trip and mostly likely the trips are on highways which tend to have charging stations. So if you drive less than 250 miles a day (on average) you'll never need to go out of your way to charge unlike petrol stations which you need to stop at verse just go home. BUT you will need to get a special outlet at home to charge which is an added expense.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
It sounds like charging is a bit more accessible than I thought. The big barrier for me is the time to charge - which limits you to about a 300 mile (or 250 on average as you quote) radius of travel per day. That turns a warm weather trip to Florida into a three or four day event. If a person didn't really care about travel time - I can see how this would be irrelevant - but if you are a family on spring break with a week to travel it is a deal breaker.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top