anyone???

 

Here is a play. Take the $13,500 trade value and keep the $9000 repair money in your pocket. That will give you $22,500 to apply toward a 2022 Corsair lease. Leasing a 2022 Corsair usually requires a $2000 down payment. That will leave $20,500 to apply toward monthly payments. 36 month lease is approximately $550 a month. The total monthly payments for 36 months is $19,800. This covers the payments with $700 remaining. If you want to go 48 months, then the monthly payment is $500 month and the $20,500 will cover 41 months. Benefit of both plays is brand new Corsair with no worries for 3 or 4 years. That is what I would do instead of investing $9000 and still driving a car with 54,000 miles and no bumper to bumper warranty. Give it some thought. Good luck with your decision.

 

Great advise!!!

 

Yeah I think my opinion would be trade it in, you could have him do the $700 repair to turn the check engine light off, that seems a little crazy though. Though if it's the same piece I replaced on my car it was $35 for the part. Granted it wasn't a Ford part but it fixed the problem.

As for the transmission, there has been a lot of failures with that transmission. I flashed my PCM early when the problem first arose and, knock on wood, I have had no problems with mine but my parents have a 2.3 also and they waited until it started jerking. They probably put 30,000 mi on the car though after the PCM flash and the transmission still hasn't given out, but just is a little uncomfortable to accelerate in the car.

As for my two cents though, with these newer cars, if you're not mechanically inclined, it's best to keep them under warranty, so I would trade on something new

 

Yeah I think my opinion would be trade it in, you could have him do the $700 repair to turn the check engine light off, that seems a little crazy though. Though if it's the same piece I replaced on my car it was $35 for the part. Granted it wasn't a Ford part but it fixed the problem.

As for the transmission, there has been a lot of failures with that transmission. I flashed my PCM early when the problem first arose and, knock on wood, I have had no problems with mine but my parents have a 2.3 also and they waited until it started jerking. They probably put 30,000 mi on the car though after the PCM flash and the transmission still hasn't given out, but just is a little uncomfortable to accelerate in the car.

As for my two cents though, with these newer cars, if you're not mechanically inclined, it's best to keep them under warranty, so I would trade on something new

I have a friend telling me I'd be a moron to even lease a corsair - they think I should move onto the mazda C5 or the Audi Q3.

 

Oh in that case just use the money to lease a vehicle of your friend's choosing.

 

I can really see why you would not return to Lincoln. Mazda's seat are too firm for me. An Audi breakdown is going to be costly. My friend's tranny was like 6500-8000K. Nissan/Infinity have nice seats and features with a terrible CVT if you don't do regular CVT fluid changes. Honda/Acura was a boring drive for me. Toyota/Lexus has something to look at and reliable.
I would look into what it takes to replace the part and/or get a third opinion on the CEL repair. Is the tranny not on an extended warranty? My 17 is, I thought. (with 2.3L)
Lug nuts can be bought off of Amazon or Ebay. If you don't plan to keep it either leave the old ones on or get any lug nuts that correctly fit.
I'd be very surprised you need rear brakes at that mileage. I have 63k on mine and I'm still good. I'd get a third opinion on that.

 

I can really see why you would not return to Lincoln. Mazda's seat are too firm for me. An Audi breakdown is going to be costly. My friend's tranny was like 6500-8000K. Nissan/Infinity have nice seats and features with a terrible CVT if you don't do regular CVT fluid changes. Honda/Acura was a boring drive for me. Toyota/Lexus has something to look at and reliable.
I would look into what it takes to replace the part and/or get a third opinion on the CEL repair. Is the tranny not on an extended warranty? My 17 is, I thought. (with 2.3L)
Lug nuts can be bought off of Amazon or Ebay. If you don't plan to keep it either leave the old ones on or get any lug nuts that correctly fit.
I'd be very surprised you need rear brakes at that mileage. I have 63k on mine and I'm still good. I'd get a third opinion on that.

They said the rear brakes and rotors are at 3mm I believe. I test drove a VW tiguan and went back to drive the mazda cx 5 again, I think I like the mazda best so far. No I do not have an extended warranty - never had a transmission go on a vehicle before - I'm still mad that I only have 54K miles and have this issue. I had trouble with a cadillac SRX and swore off Cadillac and even though that corsair is so beautiful - I'm just not feeling comfortable after reading they are also still having this issue in those. Thanks everyone for your comments and feedback!

 

I have to agree with buckeye, I would stay away from anything that is from Audi, or any other European automaker. Those vehicles are just too expensive to fix and seem to break down frequently

 

Hi Everyone! I need some help. I have a 2016 MKC 2.3 L all wheel drive. It's only got 54,000 miles. Mint interior and exterior. I took it this past week for service because I have had a check engine light on and they told me that it is due to code DTC P144C. They say this is due to a stuck open vapor management valve that requires replacement. Apparently this will cost over $700. I also need rear brakes and rotors which is quoted as well around $690. They say that the lug nuts are swolen and recommend that ALL be replaced. Apparently they don't have the factory lug nuts but can get some from advance auto for $10 per piece so $200 total. The kicker here is the past 3 weeks I have noticed the first time I drive that upon acceleration it kinda jerks or makes a tug motion. They say that I need a complete transmission deconstruction which is being quoted at around $5500 and that's not even including parts. I get it, regular maintenace is fine, I was totally fine with the brakes since I have never had to do that yet but I am floored at the transmission issue. I am looking at a minimum to fix everything around $9000. I went back to the dealer that I bought the car from and they ran it thru whatever system and they are saying in excellent condition without the engine light on it would be worth around $15,500 but because of the light the max trade in I could get is $13,500.
I don't know what to think if I'm getting hustled or not. I test drive the corsair but also read that people are still having transmission issues on that model as well so I would probably only consider leasing. Can you please help me out with your thoughts and suggestions? I also test drive a mazda CX 5 which I liked and the Kia sportage which isn't really at the top of my list. Help!

I've got a 2016 mkc with 80,000 miles on it and I had three transmission rebuilds under the certified warranty so they do have transmission issues as far as the check engine light if you're planning on just trading it in I would just disconnect the battery right before you go to the dealer they kind of got you you can get them on this one. When you put the battery lead back on the check engine light will be out but then you drive right to the dealer before it comes back on.

 

Thanks! Is there a video somewhere that you can direct me to that shows how to do this? How long would the check engine light stay off for? If I drive it right to the dealership won't it come back on if they take it for a test drive prior to them giving me a trade in offer?

 

Hi Everyone! I need some help. I have a 2016 MKC 2.3 L all wheel drive. It's only got 54,000 miles. Mint interior and exterior. I took it this past week for service because I have had a check engine light on and they told me that it is due to code DTC P144C. They say this is due to a stuck open vapor management valve that requires replacement. Apparently this will cost over $700. I also need rear brakes and rotors which is quoted as well around $690. They say that the lug nuts are swolen and recommend that ALL be replaced. Apparently they don't have the factory lug nuts but can get some from advance auto for $10 per piece so $200 total. The kicker here is the past 3 weeks I have noticed the first time I drive that upon acceleration it kinda jerks or makes a tug motion. They say that I need a complete transmission deconstruction which is being quoted at around $5500 and that's not even including parts. I get it, regular maintenace is fine, I was totally fine with the brakes since I have never had to do that yet but I am floored at the transmission issue. I am looking at a minimum to fix everything around $9000. I went back to the dealer that I bought the car from and they ran it thru whatever system and they are saying in excellent condition without the engine light on it would be worth around $15,500 but because of the light the max trade in I could get is $13,500.
I don't know what to think if I'm getting hustled or not. I test drive the corsair but also read that people are still having transmission issues on that model as well so I would probably only consider leasing. Can you please help me out with your thoughts and suggestions? I also test drive a mazda CX 5 which I liked and the Kia sportage which isn't really at the top of my list. Help!

Attention K-mart Shoppers.........
Before you spend a cent, I'll give you my two........for free.

Re: the DTC code. Try this out. Where the spare tire is stored, there should be a little white or red funnel in case you runout of gas. Take the funnel and push it in(as far as it will go) and out of the fuel filler tube a few times. There are two small doors that are opened and closed every time you put gas in the car. The sensor maybe detecting a stuck open situation. I've had it happen on an MKC and MKX. After you hopefully trip the switch either clear the codes and see if they come back or drive for 50 miles and see if they go away. If indeed it turns out to be the purge valve it is a $50 part and don't let the stealership put it in. Go to an independent garage and have the work done including the brakes.
Re: jerking on acceleration. Since you have AWD it's a good possibility the problem is the PDU(power distribution unit). The unit sits down right next to the exhaust which does a nice job of cooking the fluid in it. Last time I check they were around $1800.00
In either case a reputable mechanic can figure it out. You just have to find one near you.

Brake parts are around $200.00. You're paying mostly for labor.

Best of luck.

 

Attention K-mart Shoppers.........
Before you spend a cent, I'll give you my two........for free.

Re: the DTC code. Try this out. Where the spare tire is stored, there should be a little white or red funnel in case you runout of gas. Take the funnel and push it in(as far as it will go) and out of the fuel filler tube a few times. There are two small doors that are opened and closed every time you put gas in the car. The sensor maybe detecting a stuck open situation. I've had it happen on an MKC and MKX. After you hopefully trip the switch either clear the codes and see if they come back or drive for 50 miles and see if they go away. If indeed it turns out to be the purge valve it is a $50 part and don't let the stealership put it in. Go to an independent garage and have the work done including the brakes.
Re: jerking on acceleration. Since you have AWD it's a good possibility the problem is the PDU(power distribution unit). The unit sits down right next to the exhaust which does a nice job of cooking the fluid in it. Last time I check they were around $1800.00
In either case a reputable mechanic can figure it out. You just have to find one near you.

Brake parts are around $200.00. You're paying mostly for labor.

Best of luck.

Sorry don't laugh at me, once I remove the funnel you are saying to push it in and out of the fuel filler tube ( same spot you put where you fill car with gas? ) Hubby wants me to just trade the car - this has totally gotten us spooked. I would just like to get the check engine light off until long enough for them to test drive and do the trade in offer. I haven't felt anything weird with the transmission at all in the past day - seems like it acts up most when I first drive - and it only does the worst tug motion when I pull out of driveway and I'm headed down the road - if I take my foot off the gas I can prevent the tug from happening and then it doesn't seem to happen again.

 

Hi Everyone! I need some help. I have a 2016 MKC 2.3 L all wheel drive. It's only got 54,000 miles. Mint interior and exterior. I took it this past week for service because I have had a check engine light on and they told me that it is due to code DTC P144C. They say this is due to a stuck open vapor management valve that requires replacement. Apparently this will cost over $700. I also need rear brakes and rotors which is quoted as well around $690. They say that the lug nuts are swolen and recommend that ALL be replaced. Apparently they don't have the factory lug nuts but can get some from advance auto for $10 per piece so $200 total. The kicker here is the past 3 weeks I have noticed the first time I drive that upon acceleration it kinda jerks or makes a tug motion. They say that I need a complete transmission deconstruction which is being quoted at around $5500 and that's not even including parts. I get it, regular maintenace is fine, I was totally fine with the brakes since I have never had to do that yet but I am floored at the transmission issue. I am looking at a minimum to fix everything around $9000. I went back to the dealer that I bought the car from and they ran it thru whatever system and they are saying in excellent condition without the engine light on it would be worth around $15,500 but because of the light the max trade in I could get is $13,500.
I don't know what to think if I'm getting hustled or not. I test drive the corsair but also read that people are still having transmission issues on that model as well so I would probably only consider leasing. Can you please help me out with your thoughts and suggestions? I also test drive a mazda CX 5 which I liked and the Kia sportage which isn't really at the top of my list. Help!

My recommendation is to address these issues, but use your common sense & get quotes from independent garages. The check engine light can turned off with a $200 code reader. Bye the way, a good friend of mine is a mechanic who drives a CX-5 and loves it. We live in Metro Detroit & the average Joe used to drive a Chevy of Ford. When I asked him why he bought a Mazda, he explained that in his service garage, they get a lot of Chrysler, Ford, Chevy & Honda vehicles in for service but rarely see Mazda's because they don't breakdown.

 

I think I'm settled on the mazda. Wish I knew someone with the code reader to help turn it off.

 

Hi Everyone! I need some help. I have a 2016 MKC 2.3 L all wheel drive. It's only got 54,000 miles. Mint interior and exterior. I took it this past week for service because I have had a check engine light on and they told me that it is due to code DTC P144C. They say this is due to a stuck open vapor management valve that requires replacement. Apparently this will cost over $700. I also need rear brakes and rotors which is quoted as well around $690. They say that the lug nuts are swolen and recommend that ALL be replaced. Apparently they don't have the factory lug nuts but can get some from advance auto for $10 per piece so $200 total. The kicker here is the past 3 weeks I have noticed the first time I drive that upon acceleration it kinda jerks or makes a tug motion. They say that I need a complete transmission deconstruction which is being quoted at around $5500 and that's not even including parts. I get it, regular maintenace is fine, I was totally fine with the brakes since I have never had to do that yet but I am floored at the transmission issue. I am looking at a minimum to fix everything around $9000. I went back to the dealer that I bought the car from and they ran it thru whatever system and they are saying in excellent condition without the engine light on it would be worth around $15,500 but because of the light the max trade in I could get is $13,500.
I don't know what to think if I'm getting hustled or not. I test drive the corsair but also read that people are still having transmission issues on that model as well so I would probably only consider leasing. Can you please help me out with your thoughts and suggestions? I also test drive a mazda CX 5 which I liked and the Kia sportage which isn't really at the top of my list. Help!

I literally bought this car from Mazda Libertyville. Dealing with all of these issues now even after my warranty service paid $4k to rebuild the transmission. How wonderful!

 

$9,000 is a hefty sum, no doubt, but let's see if we can find some solutions. Regarding the check engine light, that stuck open vapor management valve can be a bit pesky, but it's essential to address it. Maybe you can ask around for other quotes from reputable mechanics to see if you can find a better deal? As for the lug nuts, $200 seems a bit steep.

Check with some local auto shops or online stores; you might find better prices for factory lug nuts. If you still cannot find this amount, then you may need to take out a loan. This may require the help of a Mortgage Broker in Telford. But don't worry, I think they will be able to calculate a minimum loan rate for you in case of an emergency.

 

Here is a thought ...

Once the car is out of warranty, leave dealers alone. They thrive on CASH REPAIR TICKETS. The purge valve repl is much lower than what was quoted (use only MOTORCRAFT).

You need to talk with a AUTO TRANS SHOP and get advice/quote. Their reman trans are updated to correct and not have the usual trans problems down the road.

The lug nuts are one of their favorites. The OEM has a metal shell COVER and is easily damaged. You want to replace with quality aftermarket (McGuard or GORILLA) solid lug nuts. A dealer usually replaces with OEM and you start the whole process again.