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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
About a year ago i was rear ended.
I had the repairs done & they replaced the rear hatch,Bumper & Exhaust.
They painted the rear & all the way to the back doors.
I felt it did not match great, but being a new car at the time i did not want to have sanded & repainted & it might come out worse.I thought i would live with it.
But i still get sick everytime i look at the MKC.
I would like you guy's opinion if i should call the body shop & complain or live with it.
Please look at Picture's & give your opinion.
 

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How long ago did they do the repair?...

If I was in your shoes, I'd definitely have them redo it. The color of the door vs the rear is quite noticeable in the photo, not something I could live with myself.
 

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I assume that the work is guaranteed? I would contact the shop and tell them, yes, it has been 1 year, but this does not preclude the fact that the job was substandard. If they are stand up they should address the issue, I would contact the insurance company ( I am assuming this was done through) as well just to get your options in order.
 

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Something to consider: adding a flex agent to paint that is going over plastics WILL create a slight different shade,without a flex agent, the slightest tap on ANY plastic part with crack the paint, light coloured paint is HARD to match to factory....I don't see much difference, and viewing a picture is not a true rendition of any shade differences....factors such as light, reflectance, luminosity pigment throwback,sheen, orange peel and a few other variables make it impossible to "assess."
To my eye, it looks pretty good.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well i got lucky.
I emailed the Photo to the shop & they said bring it in for them to see.
The Manager saw the Difference & said he would blend it whatever that is.
He even offered me an older Honda Civic to drive while repairs are being done.
I hope it comes out better.
I am concerned, will he remove the emblems & replace them to do a good job.
All i can do is hope for a great job that matches.
He said they need it 3 day's.
I will post back when it is completed.
 

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Hope it goes well, wonder if they used the actual Lincoln color
 

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Colour pigment is a funny creature, so many variables to consider as stated above in my earlier post.....if plastics are being sprayed, they WILL have to add flex agent to the paint....walk into any dealership and take a close look at the paint on plastics and paint on metal.....distinct difference, especially with light hued tones...white is a tough colour to match,so are reds, metallics and pearls....pigment, dye lots, size of metallic sparkle,type of reducer.....huge amount of variables, usually they mask emblems,unless you specifically discuss with them,if they remove them, they simply replace the sticky backing tape on them and reapply them......insist on getting them replaced, the sticky backing tape is nowhere near as strong as factory tapes,just a heads up!
Blending is a way of over spraying into factory paint to make it less obvious, this usually means the clear coat is removed with a 2800 grit wet sand paper,and a light pass is applied, followed with new clear coat to lock it in ( water based paints)...MAKE sure they are not about to blend OVER existing clear coat or it will peel within a few years,guaranteed!
When you go to pick up your ride, MAKE sure you look at the repaired area in BOTH sun and shade....usually if you have a mismatch it's more easy to spot in good bright shade.
Paint will need a month to sun bleach down a bit...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
How can you trust them to tell the truth about not blending over existing clear coat ?
They did offer me a Lifetime warranty so if they don't do it properly,i will be back.
They did not give me any trouble as it is 14 months since they did the repair & they are standing behind it.
 

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How can you trust them to tell the truth about not blending over existing clear coat ?
They did offer me a Lifetime warranty so if they don't do it properly,i will be back.
They did not give me any trouble as it is 14 months since they did the repair & they are standing behind it.
Well, sounds like they are a stand up outfit,I would still get things in writing from them,just staying on the safe side of a deal....As you probably know, there are a lot of scammers out there,minimize the chances by getting the process done in written form.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Dropped it off this morning & Questioned him & he said he is not repainting the back,Only painting the Quarter panel's & blending.
I sure hope it look's good,if not What recourse do i have ?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks bkrell2:
So it seems there is no perfect match.
I was wondering if i went to Lincoln for the repair would it match better.
My brother had $30,000.00 dollars damage to his Mercedes S 550 & he took it to Mercedes & was happy with the paint,they had it 7 week's.
 

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Thanks bkrell2:
So it seems there is no perfect match.
I was wondering if i went to Lincoln for the repair would it match better.
My brother had $30,000.00 dollars damage to his Mercedes S 550 & he took it to Mercedes & was happy with the paint,they had it 7 week's.
Hi desgnr, I have the same color as you and I have been rear-ended twice in one year. The first time was extensive ($15,500) the second time was more typical of a rear end collision ($5,700). My Lincoln dealer refers their body work to local body shops but I elected to take my 2015 MKC to a long-established Ford dealership that is known for having a great body shop. I was very pleased with the work but the paint matching was not perfect but acceptable. I knew going in, as others have commented, the metallic, pearlescent tri-coat white would be tough to match if I ever dinged it and that has proven true. If I was you, I'd take yours to either a Lincoln or Ford (OEM) dealership because they would be more likely to have had to work with your color and it's unique quirks. I wish you well!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Bruce, it's a little late for that.
If i went to a Lincoln dealer i would have to pay out of my pocket.
 

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The white on the MKC is a tri-coat which in itself is tough to do for a body shop. Trying to match by hand what a factory paint booth with computer controlled robots doing the spraying would be a challenge. Maybe the question to ask the shop is what is their experience with tri-coat paints. I seem to remember my agent stating there is an upcharge on your insurance if you have a special factory paint due to the extra labor.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
blankster:
Where do i look to see if i was charged an upcharge.
I already paid Lincoln extra for the color.
So why do they use tri coat if it becomes a problem when you have an accident ?
What do i do now to have my new MKC look new again ?
 

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I had a rear hatch crunch repaired last month myself.
My body man is very particular and says he paints the plastic panels (bumper cover) 2X. Otherwise the green of the material can show through in strong sunlight.
When I gave him that 'oh sure' look, he pointed out the factory paint on the front end. Sure enough, there was a different tone there.
When I got it back, the rear was better than Louisville.............
 

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Well, one of my metallic spray guns (top feed) is specifically designed for metallic or tricot paints...adjustable paint ports,lower head pressure (12 psi as opposed to 18 psi) and came with 5 different nozzle diameters to accommodate flake...the paint holder has a small revolving paddle to keep the metallic moving,runs on side pressure impulse out the primary hose...This gun is a completely different animal that my regular bottom tank vacuum feed spray gun...usually, I test spray several testing panels with tweaks to the paint before I make up my mind....matching is at best,very difficult....just so many variables to contend with....as an example: I usually never shake any metallic paints....old school stir sticks,I also tend to use a lil more suspension agent....3 or 4 additional grams per once,it helps with keeping the metallic flake suspended a lil longer, even tho it's being paddle stirred...
And ALWAYS add flex agent to plastics, min 3 passes ( coats) for better coverage...I also like using the much lighter primer paints for better concealment...usually 3 coats with 20 minute flash in between; 1st coat, 70% paint 30% reducer. 2nd coat 50% 50% and final coat 30% paint, 70% reducer.....last coat helps fills microscopic pin holes better and brings out a better base to lay top paint on.
 
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