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First off,Thanks for letting me join! I've been reading all the threads on here and I haven't found quite what I'm looking for. Here's my dilemma on my 2015 MKC with powerliftgate: Power liftgate started acting crazy, sometimes it worked electrically, sometimes it didn't. Still worked manually. One day I passed by the rear and noticed the sound of the rear latch cycling. After a weekend of no use, found dead battery. Charged battery and two days later dead again. Took rear liftgate apart to investigate, found lock cycling. Used amprobe on battery and determined that with car off and PLGM ( I believe is the correct term Power Liftgate Module) plugged in, 5A draining from battery. Door actuator quits working from all switches, electrically, altogether. Only way to open rear gate is to manually stick hand in door and push lever on actuator. Unplugged the module and it went to 0A. Ordered a new module and while waiting, pulled latch mechanism apart and checked all of the switches in it. everything looked OK. Got new module in and installed. Power liftgate still doesn't work. Ordered a new liftgate motor, waited 2 months since they were on back order, installed it and still nothing. All fuses OK. Used Forscan Lite with ELM327 Module and found an error that said the computer had lost communications with the PLGM. Cleared the code and retested and the code never came back. Still doesn't work. Car is out of warranty and dealership too far away. I'm praying someone here can help me. Thanks
 

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Did you check the wiring harness entering the hatch from the roof. That flexure point is an isue on MANY vehicles. My BMW wiring failed there
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, in order to change the liftgate motor, you have to pull the headliner down to get at that connection. Definitely not in that connector. The new motor came with all of the wiring that passes through that entry point.
 

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There is a software flash for 2016s and 2017s that keeps the rear hatch module from staying on after a close cycle but I see you have a 2015.
 

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Just an update...brought it in a few months ago and the RGTM has to be programmed... this thing has so many modules on the M Can bus.... I’m sure it will be a nightmare again soon.
 

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Same problem, solution unclear

First off,Thanks for letting me join! I've been reading all the threads on here and I haven't found quite what I'm looking for. Here's my dilemma on my 2015 MKC with powerliftgate: Power liftgate started acting crazy, sometimes it worked electrically, sometimes it didn't. Still worked manually. One day I passed by the rear and noticed the sound of the rear latch cycling. After a weekend of no use, found dead battery. Charged battery and two days later dead again. Took rear liftgate apart to investigate, found lock cycling. Used amprobe on battery and determined that with car off and PLGM ( I believe is the correct term Power Liftgate Module) plugged in, 5A draining from battery. Door actuator quits working from all switches, electrically, altogether. Only way to open rear gate is to manually stick hand in door and push lever on actuator. Unplugged the module and it went to 0A. Ordered a new module and while waiting, pulled latch mechanism apart and checked all of the switches in it. everything looked OK. Got new module in and installed. Power liftgate still doesn't work. Ordered a new liftgate motor, waited 2 months since they were on back order, installed it and still nothing. All fuses OK. Used Forscan Lite with ELM327 Module and found an error that said the computer had lost communications with the PLGM. Cleared the code and retested and the code never came back. Still doesn't work. Car is out of warranty and dealership too far away. I'm praying someone here can help me. Thanks
So, what do I do.
 

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I am new to this forum. Have same problem with 2015 MKC liftgate with less than 30,000 miles. Dealership has no idea what to do. The door would not close, would not open, then at times when it was closed it would sound as if it was still trying to catch/lock. 2 weeks ago replaced actuator. In last 5 days 1.5 year old battery gave out. Car could not be jumped. New main module put in along with new battery. Has anybody figured out the solution other than trading cars?
 

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Did anyone find the answer to these issues?

I'm having the same thing happen.

I brought the car into the dealership and they replaced the latch mechanism but that didn't solve the problem. They are ordering a new module to try that.

I also had them confirm that the module was running the latest firmware.
 

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Hello. I hope somone will see this. Someone that maybe came up with a solution. The same problem as everyone above. The "dun-dun-dun" sound of the lift gate cycling was driving me nuts. Over the Christmas long weekend the constant cycling finally ran my already bad cell battery dead and because I didn't have the key in the key fob when I purchased this a few months ago I had to call a tow service to break into my car. Changed the battery. The dun-dun-dun is still there so I found the f8 fuse the shuts off the liftgate completely and it stopped the motor from cycling. It also stopped the liftgate from working. That fuse panel fyi is in the back. So to replace the fuse I'll have to crawl from the back seat to put it back in.
Here's the interesting thing. Though the motor is not coming on doing the dun-dun-dun sound every 5-10 seconds. Now there is a click click sound soundsike a relay trying to activate the motor every 5 to 10 seconds. So where ever that signal is coming from is the issue. But I have NO IDEA where that signal so coming from.
My next feat will be to remove the panel on the loft gate and find the source to the click click and see where it leads. I need my liftgate. As anyone would. So I have to find the solution to this. And what is causing that relay to activate over and over again 24/7. In the car, not in the car, doesn't matter. The dun-dun-dun is now replaced with click - click - click.
If anyone has figured this out please let me know. I would sure appreciate it! Thank you.
 

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The latest strategy for the RGTM that Forscan found for my 2015 MKC is EJ7T-14C121-AM. It was the same numbers and letters with an AK on the very end - so newer. With Forscan 2.4.3 I was able to download the strategy and Forscan updated the Rear Tailgate/Trunk Module. It was reported and thought that this module was responsible for the battery discharging, but I also replaced the battery so it may be premature for me to suggest this was a solution. However I was able to update the module.
 

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@Mkcliftgate4life and @lenko, thanks for reviving this thread. I have been searching/following trying to troubleshoot my '15 MKC Liftgate. My deal is the lock keep cycling (un-cinching?), not actually unlocking or opening, just the pre-unlock sound, happen after locking, with tail gate open, while driving, constant. With a stronger battery, and daily driving, it was annoying, but livable. The battery started showing its age and now we have gotten stuck with dead battery a few times in the last month. Today I installed the new battery and pulled fuse f8, thinking I would get the car reliable/drivable and then start working the modules/wiring. Also note that after I pulled the F8 FUSE and put it back as part of troubleshooting, I have NO liftgate action at all; FOB, Cockpit &, tailgate buttons and kick no worky. Got my FORSCAN out and looked for DTC and found nothing. Seeing Lenko response about new 2.4 FORSCAN that allows module programming, I think I will see what I can do to try to re-flash that Module. For some reason it show the model/part for the RGTM, but no strategy? If you guys want to work together on any troubleshooting, happy to put our heads together. Going to go learn 2.4.x now....
 

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@Mkcliftgate4life and @lenko, thanks for reviving this thread. I have been searching/following trying to troubleshoot my '15 MKC Liftgate. My deal is the lock keep cycling (un-cinching?), not actually unlocking or opening, just the pre-unlock sound, happen after locking, with tail gate open, while driving, constant. With a stronger battery, and daily driving, it was annoying, but livable. The battery started showing its age and now we have gotten stuck with dead battery a few times in the last month. Today I installed the new battery and pulled fuse f8, thinking I would get the car reliable/drivable and then start working the modules/wiring. Also note that after I pulled the F8 FUSE and put it back as part of troubleshooting, I have NO liftgate action at all; FOB, Cockpit &, tailgate buttons and kick no worky. Got my FORSCAN out and looked for DTC and found nothing. Seeing Lenko response about new 2.4 FORSCAN that allows module programming, I think I will see what I can do to try to re-flash that Module. For some reason it show the model/part for the RGTM, but no strategy? If you guys want to work together on any troubleshooting, happy to put our heads together. Going to go learn 2.4.x now....
Update: I got FORSCAN 2.4.3 installed but when I go to Config and Programming, I don't see the RGTM listed a module! (perhaps the problem, bad module?). Though when I do a scan on the MS-CAN it comes up...
FYI my Strategy for RGTM is EJ7T14C121-AG

I will keep digging....
 

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Hello. I hope somone will see this. Someone that maybe came up with a solution. The same problem as everyone above. The "dun-dun-dun" sound of the lift gate cycling was driving me nuts. Over the Christmas long weekend the constant cycling finally ran my already bad cell battery dead and because I didn't have the key in the key fob when I purchased this a few months ago I had to call a tow service to break into my car. Changed the battery. The dun-dun-dun is still there so I found the f8 fuse the shuts off the liftgate completely and it stopped the motor from cycling. It also stopped the liftgate from working. That fuse panel fyi is in the back. So to replace the fuse I'll have to crawl from the back seat to put it back in.
Here's the interesting thing. Though the motor is not coming on doing the dun-dun-dun sound every 5-10 seconds. Now there is a click click sound soundsike a relay trying to activate the motor every 5 to 10 seconds. So where ever that signal is coming from is the issue. But I have NO IDEA where that signal so coming from.
My next feat will be to remove the panel on the loft gate and find the source to the click click and see where it leads. I need my liftgate. As anyone would. So I have to find the solution to this. And what is causing that relay to activate over and over again 24/7. In the car, not in the car, doesn't matter. The dun-dun-dun is now replaced with click - click - click.
If anyone has figured this out please let me know. I would sure appreciate it! Thank you.
Is the Click the headlight relay "clicking". Since my Liftgate is not working at all, I noticed the head & tail light blink when the liftgate button is tried, I hear the headlight relay click when I do. If that is your case, perhaps you have a bad button that keeps trying to open the liftgate?
 

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Update: New module is coming. Will flash and update strategy to latest. Checked all fuses and pinout, all seems correct. Hoping module will be the trick. Will advise. FYI, Driving without the RGTM module installed in the car, had no tail/turn lights on liftgate.
 

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Is the Click the headlight relay "clicking". Since my Liftgate is not working at all, I noticed the head & tail light blink when the liftgate button is tried, I hear the headlight relay click when I do. If that is your case, perhaps you have a bad button that keeps trying to open the liftgate?
I had a similar problem where the rear hatch was opening randomly and this only applies to vehicles with a push button start-- Update the RFA(Remote Function Actuator) module by reprogramming. After I updated the module the concern was repaired. Hope this helps!
 

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I had a similar problem where the rear hatch was opening randomly and this only applies to vehicles with a push button start-- Update the RFA(Remote Function Actuator) module by reprogramming. After I updated the module the concern was repaired. Hope this helps!

I scanned and do not have a RFA Module listed. Which CAN did you find this in?
 

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OK guys/girls, I picked up a 2015 MKC a few months ago for my wife, replacing a 2002 Durango. I drive my cars until the wheels fall off, then put em back on and drive some more. Needless to say we both love the MKC but are starting to see some issues.
1. No crank, battery is good. Disconnected the battery for 20 seconds, reconnect, started right up. Has not happened again but now I carry a 10mm wrench with me.
2. Rear Lift Gate making the triple clicking noise.
3. Battery going dead in 24 hours.
Got the full PDF service manual online for around $25, 14,000 pages so be prepared to read, no I will not share/send it to you. I'll see if I can find the link if anyone is interested.
Using Forscan and the OBDLink EX adapter (amazon), first thing I noticed that in the BCM, the battery charge was set to 85%, maybe this is to increase the incredibly short MKC battery life, NOT WORKING FORD!. I set mine to 100%, did not solve the battery drain issue. More on this later under a different header.

Rear Lift Gate noise was driving me nuts, and I figured contributed to the dead battery. Using Forscan, ran the RGTM test did not find a problem. Took the rear latch out of vehicle, checked all 5 switches in the latch, they seemed to be working OK. Put latch back in vehicle. The clicking, or dun-dun-dun noise is the latch going through its motions, when you close the lift gate, the latch senses the first latch position, then the cinch motor will pull the gate closed all the way, then the motor will reverse back to a neutral position. In a working vehicle, when you initiate a gate open, the cinch motor moves the other direction and released the latch, then the lift arm motor turns on and opens the gate. Checked the power/ground going to the RGTM, all ok.
I am an electronics guy so I had to tear into the RGTM itself looking for open solder joints or other problems. Did not find any apparent issues, but I did notice the rear lights do not work without the module installed. This is because when the gate is opened, Ford disables the rear lights, not sure why, maybe the engineers at Ford did not want to blind birds or something. Nice Design Guys, really stupid way to do this. Anyways, in the process of poking around in the RGTM, I must have pushed it over the edge. When I reinstalled it, it would not talk to Forscan anymore, but hay, by tail lights were working again. By the way, I left the interior panels off the vehicle to have access to the RGTM and latch, after I completely killed the module, the rear release button did not work anymore. I ordered a new module and installed it.
The latch cinch-neutral noise is now gone, I can open the lift gate using the rear button and Forscan can find the module. I am getting a RGTM Error of U201A:55-8A, RGTM not configured. I do not see any options in Forscan to do the initial PMI (Programmable Module Insertion) or reprogramming. For me, replacing the RGTM module solved part of my issue, I am sure if I can reprogram the RGTM the rest of the lift gate system would work. Sorry for writing a book, lets get this RGTM issue figured out!
 
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