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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New owner and am going to install trailer hitch and light kit. In my haste to get a trailer hitch ordered. I ordered the following trailer lighting kit: Curt T-connector Wiring Harness - 4-pole Flat. In watching the you tube video the company was showing I thought it was an MKC not MKZ. However the lights on my 2015 MKC are in the lift gate. So to not delay my install Saturday morning I am hoping someone else has used this kit to add trailer lights to the MKC. I have not been able to find a video or even instructions for this. It looked so easy on the MKZ as the lights were on the body. I had not taken delivery on the MKC yet, so wasn't sure of the lighting configuration.

So if anyone else has done this or has experience please let me know how you did your install.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I did find a written set of instructions (PDF), Just have to go into the drivers side panel in the rear compartment and tap into the turn signal wiring. And then run a lead to the battery to power the trailer lights.

I will still be glad for any advice if anyone else has done this job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Still looking for some help!

Got the connections made in the cargo area. I am still looking for ideas or help from anyone who has fed the 12 volt connector wire from the rear cargo area to the battery. The kit company suggested routing the the 12 volt wire under the carpet and sill plates to the front firewall and feeding the wire through the firewall under /beneath the steering wheel. Have not ever attempted before,
So has anyone had experience feeding the wire through the firewall or ideas of how to best accomplish this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Cried uncle on wiring job

Got the splices completed in the cargo area for the lights to the trailer. Still no success in getting a 12 volt wire to the battery. Prettty confident I could get it run under the carpet and door sills to the firewall. But ran into total roadblock at that point. Pulled a couple of scuff panels under dash. could never find the grommet and wiring bundle into the engine compartment.

The other issue of note was in trying to remove battery and battery box. Was just about impossible to remove battery. In all my years I have never had such a difficult time removing a battery.

Called an RV shop today and was quoted $60 to 120 to place and connect that wire to the battery. I have spent enough time and effort and it is well above my ability and patience level. LOL Once I have done I will try to take some pictures of the new hitch that I installed along with the wiring kit I used.
 

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This is not the 'approved' solution but it worked for me on my Mazda CX-9. Proceed at your own risk!

I simply put a 12V accessory plug on the trailer wiring power wire and plugged it into the 12V outlet in the cargo area. The only modification to the plug was to install a higher amperage fuse. If I recall correctly, the plug I purchased from Amazon had a 3V fuse installed and I replaced it with the same amperage fuse (5V?) included with the wiring kit.

Towed a U-Haul trailer from Wilmington NC to home (8 hours) and had no issues. All of the trailer lights worked perfectly and the power wire / 12V plug did not get hot. For me, it was a much better solution than running the power wire all the way to the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I had already scheduled an appointment at an RV service center to have the 12 volt wire run to the battery. Happy to have it finished. They just charged me $65. which was 1/2 hour labor and $5 for supplies. They ran it underneath the frame and protective panel and behind the fender well with wire loom to protect it. So that job is all finished. Total cost was $275. $210 for the hitch and wiring harness plus the $65 labor for the hot wire connection.

The hitch was a Curt manufacturing hitch. Very nice and a fairly easy install. The wiring harness is a whole nother story. Take both cargo panels out, splice connections in for the trailer wiring and then the 12 volt wire up to the battery. Most went easily especially the hitch. I would not recommend this wiring kit at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
With the wiring kit, it had about 4 feet of cabling. It is in the spare tire wheel well, beneath the back cargo panel. It is a flat ribbon cable so it is designed to be pulled out when needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I pulled my utility trailer today for the first time!

Yes, I have had my MKC for a month now. I did get the lighting wiring finished with the help of an RV shop. My trailer is a 4X8 foot light duty trailer rated at 1200 LB payload and 1500 lbs total. I was quite surprised at how easily the MKC towed this trailer. On the first trip I had about the full load (1500lbs) and it was very comfortable towing with it. Still need to change the trailer ball hitch mount. On my previous truck it was a 2" drop, and it needs to be reversed to a 3/4 inch rise to get the trailer to the correct height. The lights worked and it was really very sporty still pulling the trailer. Meant to get a picture of the setup but had a project calling.
 

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Yes, I have had my MKC for a month now. I did get the lighting wiring finished with the help of an RV shop. My trailer is a 4X8 foot light duty trailer rated at 1200 LB payload and 1500 lbs total. I was quite surprised at how easily the MKC towed this trailer. On the first trip I had about the full load (1500lbs) and it was very comfortable towing with it. Still need to change the trailer ball hitch mount. On my previous truck it was a 2" drop, and it needs to be reversed to a 3/4 inch rise to get the trailer to the correct height. The lights worked and it was really very sporty still pulling the trailer. Meant to get a picture of the setup but had a project calling.
I'm in the process of getting a trailer hitch installed as well....I just bought a new '16 Legend pro fishing boat...total weight 1530lbs... Im wondering if I should be adding a transmission oil cooler to the mix, shop forman at the Lincoln dealership said I really do not need one unless I'll be towing long distances and climbing mountainous roads.....the lake I usually fish at is less than 30 KM away, the second lake I fish at (Rice Lake) is 50 meters from my home LOL.
Good to read your post that the MKC was not labouring pulling 1500 ls.I'm taking the MKC to a RV shop in Peterborough for the hitch/wiring harness install and was quoted a max of 2 hrs total, around $180 CDN, plus hitch....I have various receivers and balls so saving on having to buy those items.
Thanks for your informative post roboref.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hitch was really pretty easy!

I was glad I did the hitch myself. It was not very complicated at all and well within the ability of anyone. The video on etrailer was very easy and accurate description.

The issue as before was the wiring harness. I was able to get all the connections except the hot wire to the battery. Though as in the pictures posted, it is fairly daunting to pull off the cargo panels out, find the correct wire in the bundle and splice into it.

The quote I had was $600 total for hitch, lighting and install. I spent a total of $275 with about 6 hours of labor and I got to know the MKC better. So all in all it was a win for me.

As far as pulling my MKC is rated at 3000 lbs, so I concur with the shop foreman that a transmission cooler would not be necessary. My trailer is limited to 1500 lbs, but I can assure you the MKC towed it around town with a lot of starting and stopping with zero issues. And it was stable as well!
 

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Thanks again roberef,good to know...my overall quote was around $500 and it included everything, I let then know I already have multiple receivers and ball couplers, so it would be around $50 cheaper...
I was also told that with a non factory hitch,the tow weight is much much less that the 3000b with a factory hitch....I believe it's around 1,500 lbs. I quizzed the foreman about this and he did mention the factory hitch also comes with a trans oil cooler, which is why I initially suggested I should maybe install one, but he told me unless I am towing long hilly terrain I don't need one.
 

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I'm originally from NE Ohio and we used to vacation at Rice Lake when I was a kid. Beautiful setting and good fishing...and Lacrosse! Good times!
 

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Yeah, Rice Lake is a great lake especially if you like fishing for walleye ,bass and in the fall muskie....steps away from my house! love this area.Whole lot of American folks visit here for the summer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
My mistake, I guess this is why I should read the fine print

RECOMMENDED TOWING WEIGHTS

Note: Do not exceed the trailer weight for your vehicle configuration listed in the chart below.
Note: Be sure to take into consideration trailer frontal area. Do not exceed 20 feet2 (1.86 meters2) if your vehicle is not equipped with a towing package or 30 feet2 (2.79 meters2) if your vehicle is equipped with a towing package.
Note: For high altitude operation, reduce the gross combined weight by 2% per 300 m starting at the 300 m elevation point.
Note: Certain states require electric trailer brakes for trailers over a specified weight. Be sure to check state regulations for this specified weight. The maximum trailer weights listed may be limited to this specified weight, as the vehicle’s electrical system may not include the wiring connector needed to activate electric trailer brakes.
Your vehicle may tow a trailer provided the maximum trailer weight is less than or equal to the maximum trailer weight listed for your vehicle configuration on the following chart.

Powertrain Maximum GCWR Maximum trailer weight1
2.0L GTDI FWD2 6220 lb (2821 kg) 2000 lb (907 kg)
2.0L GTDI AWD2 6400 lb (2903 kg) 2000 lb (907 kg)
2.3L GTDI AWD2 5420 lb (2458 kg) 1000 lb (454 kg)
2.0L GTDI FWD3 7220 lb (3275 kg) 3000 lb (1361 kg)
2.0L GTDI AWD3 7400 lb (3357 kg) 3000 lb (1361 kg)
2.3L GTDI AWD3 6420 lb (2912 kg) 2000 lb (907 kg)
1Calculated with SAE J2807 method.
2Without trailer towing package.
3With trailer towing package

From the MKC online owner's manual.

I didn't see the small number 3 included in the owner's manual when I looked at my maximum weight. So, the trailer towing package must include the trans cooler as mentioned. When I looked at a used MKC the salesman didn't know that either.

Either way I am still OK, since my trailer is rated at total 1500 lbs. But good information to have.
 

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RECOMMENDED TOWING WEIGHTS

Note: Do not exceed the trailer weight for your vehicle configuration listed in the chart below.
Note: Be sure to take into consideration trailer frontal area. Do not exceed 20 feet2 (1.86 meters2) if your vehicle is not equipped with a towing package or 30 feet2 (2.79 meters2) if your vehicle is equipped with a towing package.
Note: For high altitude operation, reduce the gross combined weight by 2% per 300 m starting at the 300 m elevation point.
Note: Certain states require electric trailer brakes for trailers over a specified weight. Be sure to check state regulations for this specified weight. The maximum trailer weights listed may be limited to this specified weight, as the vehicle’s electrical system may not include the wiring connector needed to activate electric trailer brakes.
Your vehicle may tow a trailer provided the maximum trailer weight is less than or equal to the maximum trailer weight listed for your vehicle configuration on the following chart.

Powertrain Maximum GCWR Maximum trailer weight1
2.0L GTDI FWD2 6220 lb (2821 kg) 2000 lb (907 kg)
2.0L GTDI AWD2 6400 lb (2903 kg) 2000 lb (907 kg)
2.3L GTDI AWD2 5420 lb (2458 kg) 1000 lb (454 kg)
2.0L GTDI FWD3 7220 lb (3275 kg) 3000 lb (1361 kg)
2.0L GTDI AWD3 7400 lb (3357 kg) 3000 lb (1361 kg)
2.3L GTDI AWD3 6420 lb (2912 kg) 2000 lb (907 kg)
1Calculated with SAE J2807 method.
2Without trailer towing package.
3With trailer towing package

From the MKC online owner's manual.

I didn't see the small number 3 included in the owner's manual when I looked at my maximum weight. So, the trailer towing package must include the trans cooler as mentioned. When I looked at a used MKC the salesman didn't know that either.

Either way I am still OK, since my trailer is rated at total 1500 lbs. But good information to have.
Regardless what the foreman at the Lincoln dealership told me not really needing a trans oil cooler, I went ahead and called parts and ordered one, including the 2 feed lines and a filter...I know better, hot trans oil has been known to "cook" trans faster than tossing a duck in water! It's just peace of mind to have it installed...thanks for that info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
How much is the transcooler?

That sounds like a good idea. I tow maybe 1 a month at the most if that much. Never more than 1500 lbs. But it is all in town start and go. I was wondering how much you were quoted. I might like that upgrade as well. Plus, even without towing it should increase the life of the transmission.

Thanks
 

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The oil cooler is the same oil cooler that would have come with the tow package from factory,ordered through parts at Lincoln $370.00 CDN including fittings and hose....( taxes extra) should have it within a week to 10 days....most trans failures result from over heating trans....I just did not want to stress my trans through towing whatever, boat, trailer whatnot!
 

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Approx dimensions are:
1 3/4" thick X 10" long X 4" high.....so it's a pretty compact unit, 3 sets of cooling fins: outside layer, straight, second set: 9 degree left, inside set to copper tubing, 9 degree right....designed to cause max air to surface turbulence, resulting if uniform cooling... flow neck and return collar size is 3/4" tubing...this is the stock oil cooler used on Lincoln MKC with the factory tow package, requires the addition of half liter of trans oil ( so expanded oil capacity +++ ).
 
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