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Discussion Starter #1
Just washed and waxed snowball 2. She looks great, but I have noticed some rust colored specks in/ on the paint.
Anyone else have this? My first thought is that is rail dust from shipping, or from living neer a rail line. Anyone else experience this before?


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The exhaust tips on mine looked pretty rusty....I was told it was rail dust when I took it in....they cleaned it up and it looked fine...but I was NOT satisfied, they ended up replacing the muffler(s) with new....I did NOT buy the "rail dust" explanation!
 

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My wife previously had a peal white Toyota Venza anditI would get the spots you describe. It looked just like rust spots but it wasn't. Some work with the clay bar and it was as good as new. Twice a year for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I will have to try the clay bar and see if the spots come back!

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I'm a HUGE believer in clay baring my rides.....smoooooooth as silk!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Any preferences for a good wax?

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http://www.autoglym-canada.com/products/products/super-resin-polish-2
AUTO GLYM.....No regrets ever!.....I use most of their products,not cheap, but good stuff never is!
Super Resin Polish.

Super Resin Polish restores gloss to dull surfaces. Light scratches, swirls, stains and scuffs vanish leaving your paintwork like new. It is suitable for all types and colours of paint. It is simple to use and will never dry hard or become difficult to remove.

Super Resin Polish is a legend in the world of car care and you will find a bottle on the shelf in any true car enthusiast's garage.
 

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Any preferences for a good wax?

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This is a question that gets rather heated on some forums. Its like asking what is the best beer, everyone has their opinion and everyone thinks they are right. And they probably are.

Maybe more important than the brand you use is the way you use it and the frequency of your applications.

You will get better results from proper preparation prior to waxing with an average Walmart bought brand of wax than by buying a premium product and just slapping it on. Proper surface prep is a must and that includes a proper cleaning and the use of a Clay bar to remove all the crap that has found its way into the paint. It also gives you a smooth as silk surface to apply your wax. You will not only feel the difference but you will see it.

And if that isn't enough work for you (I am not going to lie, its hard work) then you can finish it off by using a quick detail spray to remove any polishing marks. By this time you will have a better than new shine. I do this at least twice a year. I am not brand centric. Over the years I have used so many different products I have lost track. I just use whatever I have.
 

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This is a question that gets rather heated on some forums. Its like asking what is the best beer, everyone has their opinion and everyone thinks they are right. And they probably are.

Maybe more important than the brand you use is the way you use it and the frequency of your applications.

You will get better results from proper preparation prior to waxing with an average Walmart bought brand of wax than by buying a premium product and just slapping it on. Proper surface prep is a must and that includes a proper cleaning and the use of a Clay bar to remove all the crap that has found its way into the paint. It also gives you a smooth as silk surface to apply your wax. You will not only feel the difference but you will see it.

And if that isn't enough work for you (I am not going to lie, its hard work) then you can finish it off by using a quick detail spray to remove any polishing marks. By this time you will have a better than new shine. I do this at least twice a year. I am not brand centric. Over the years I have used so many different products I have lost track. I just use whatever I have.
Too funny you say this type of discussion gets "heated" on other forums. I don't care about my cars (they are work trucks to me) but my wife is a fanatic which is hysterical to me.

She lives by her clay bars LOL. Claying and paint prep is critical she says! She has different grades of clay and all. Pretty sure she spends more money on car care products than shoes LOL. She bought her car in December and was so upset she couldn't immediately clay off any rail dust or contaminants on her new paint and had to wait until spring. She now vows she will never buy a car in winter, she has to "prep" it properly LOL. This includes a light paint polish after clay before wax.

I have an impact blue escape titanium. It's a 2013 and it literally only got washed twice since ownership. Once after body shop work when I was rear ended at high speed, and once through a car wash. My car was covered in those little red dots on the paint and plastic( it's called "industrial fallout and shows up more on white). After she clayed, polished, waxed my car last summer it was called the "blue mirror" at work, really incredible results bringing my paint back to life. It's funny to say my wife has mad detailing skills.

Where do you live, you should hire her LOL. I'll send her over.
 

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Your wife sounds like me. I have and will continue to wash and wax even in a light snowfall. Its a sickness LOL
 

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Your wife sounds like me. I have and will continue to wash and wax even in a light snowfall. Its a sickness LOL
It is funny to me because she's quite normal otherwise but she doesn't hurt anyone so I let her be.
I tell her all the time she has problems. Begged her not to get another black car (although who am I kidding, she'd still be out there for hours with any color) but what color did we come home with anyway? :grin
It is a sickness, one I'm not affected with thankfully.
 

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Lets not forget applying a sealer:
I usually spend the best part of a day doing mine...(3 times yearly).
1: 2 bucket wash,with second bucket having an ultra fine (.0002 micron) "float filter to trap fine particle debris as I dip in bucket 1 for a fresh application of soapy washing water.
2nd bucket is home water (reverse osmosis) for rinsing as I go along, final rinse is through my power washer (reverse Osmoses,in fine mist spray.
2: I do not use a chamouis on paint work at all EVER!, it's only used to clean and dry interior....after washing, it's air blown ( 2 water traps installed inline) with an air nozzle.
3: Start at roof and work down to window level....front hood and finally rear end, I use Mother's clay bars exclusively ...below belt line, I use an older clay bar for lower panels at wheel level....6 uses and I chuck it.
All this gets done on a cool car in my garage...
My Candy Apple Red has ZERO swirls or they will be addressed...with varying cutting compounds and my wolf pro polisher...
4: This is when I apply a high quality paint sealer, 2 thin coats, one hour apart so I give it time to glaze.
5:High definition Auto Glym wax is my weapon of choice, very very high concentrated Carnuba wax in this product,which I like because it lasts through a bunch of washes.
6: Final pass is a molecular paint sealer that has a harder tougher shell when cured....that gets lightly sprayed, this final stage I am working with dual 6,000 Kelvin spots sitting at 45 degree angle to the paint part I'm working on with my #5 finishing cotton bonnet,my final pass is then hand done in linear motion (rather than circular, which causes pronounced swirls) front to back.
I can pour a full glass of water on ANY part of the car and it ALL beads right off, literally not a drop remains, this also stops ambient fine particle dust to NOT attach to the paint work,for weeks on end while driving...seriously, show quality finish!
Couple of additional notes:
Garage has "Rockwell ceramic floor finish over existing concrete, in my roof gables, a front indiction 2' round turbo prop fan that feeds cold dual filtered air into the garage ( zero dust particles) at rear, same diameter 2' extractor turbo fan going through a rubber shroud....both are directly wired to come on simultaneously for induction/extraction.....all 3 garage doors have full rubber membranes on all 3 sides, including a 4 inch floor rubberized threshold.
Water feed to the garage is hooked to our reverse osmoses whole home system, which is what I use for my car care needs.
I have won 1st place ribbons, so far 4 times at various car shows best in class, glossiest finish, and best overall smoothest paint finish....the last one we pretty much took down the factory clear coat to base colour coat, applied new BSAF water based clear coat anew micron filtered from can to spray paint holder, and ended up with 6 highly hand rubbed finishes, each coat was water sanded to remove the slightest "orange peel" till it was perfectly flat...clear coats were applied with an inverted low pressure pass eon charged trick gun, in a full downdraft spray booth.
Candy Apple Red paint has 3 levels of flake courses to a total of 5 coats,painting this specialized paint is at best, tricky.....the gun used for the pigment/flake coats has an agitator paddle that runs off a small motor at the base of the paint holder...the first coat (coarsest flake) has to be kept in constant motion or it will settle and create different flake thicknesses,remaining coats using finer flake finish the application of base coat ......ANY Candy Apple paint gets pricy because of the level of work involved.....Saw a jet black Candy Apple that took my breath away at the last competition I entered in Mississauga ,it also was a flip flop trick application.....from the front, looking toward the rear,it switched to a deep amber purple....from the back toward the front...it turned into the wettest deepest hue of absolute black with hues of flake playing in the light.....guy and his brother are pro painters and that paint job would set you back close to 15 large.
long post but thought I 'd share some of my secrets in paint care/washing/waxing.
 

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It is funny to me because she's quite normal otherwise but she doesn't hurt anyone so I let her be.
I tell her all the time she has problems. Begged her not to get another black car (although who am I kidding, she'd still be out there for hours with any color) but what color did we come home with anyway? :grin
It is a sickness, one I'm not affected with thankfully.
LOL the joy of it all hehehehe......I swore black cars off a long time ago, it's one tough colour to maintain and you get the added bonus (no matter how careful you are) to enjoy lovely swirls! LOL
 

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LOL the joy of it all hehehehe......I swore black cars off a long time ago, it's one tough colour to maintain and you get the added bonus (no matter how careful you are) to enjoy lovely swirls! LOL
Funny story, one time my wife was picking up her car from service. She walked out with the SA chatting and they walked up to two black MKCs parked back to front (one was hers and one was a loaner) She wasn't directly paying attention and as they were chatting she caught a glimpse of the loaner in the sun covered in swirls and thought it was hers for a few seconds.

The SA describes the scene and the look on my wife's face when she sees the swirls and thinks its her car. The SA was in absolute tears laughing saying all the color drained on my wife's face and he's never seen a look like that LOL. He was like, I thought she was going to faint for a few seconds

OMG it is a sickness.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I am going to use one of the trucks at the fire hall as a test run for claybar and wax! It looks like I have entered into a whole new world. Very excited!

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Sublime, you are so NOT going to believe the results! after you wash and dry the car, make sure you use the clay bar when the car's cool to the touch....make sure to use the wetting agent that comes with the clay bar, otherwise use a spray bottle filled with water and a few drops of mild dish soap, stir the mixture rather than shake it to minimize sudding and frothing.....knead the clay in your hands to soften and flatten it to fit your palm.
Spray a small area (1ft square) and start a back and forth motion with the clay.....check for any remaining "bumps" on the paint, if you find any, continue on that spot till they are gone, knead the clay often as you go along...after finishing the entire car, do a quick wash again.....the paint will be perfectly smooooooooth as you run your hand over it,then proceed with wax.....it's like nothing you ever experienced before.....you're removing fine particle tree sap pollutants and a ton of other crap off the paint....good luck with this project!
PS if you have the time, do the glass as well,you'll see the REAL definition of "smooth as glass" in a new light!
I found the best clay bars are made by Mother's and you can just buy the whole kit, clay bar, bottle and liquid for a couple more bucks.....store the clay in the plastic box it comes in, or wrap it in plastic wrap!
 

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Until I read this thread, I had never heard of clay bars before.
 

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Wow.... I would have thought you'd know about them,they are magical things....feels like a lump of playdoo in your hand, very strange stuff..CT carries them,but the whole kit, easier and their wetting agent is excellent,they are not too expensive either!.....Mother's for the win!
 

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The strange thing about clay bars is their ability to "lift" contaminants and especially tree sap droppings......run your hand on any part of your car BEFORE you clay bar it, you'll notice a bunch of tiny lil "bumps" as you glide your hand over it, them do the same after you have clay bar that section.....MAGIC from middle earth I say! I bet Frodo had some in his pouch to keep the ring feeling smooth,before he lost it lol.....
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So I had the day off today and tried my clay bar out! What a night and day difference. All of the "rail dust" is gone and after putting wax on, it looks like my cars is dripping wet. So cool!


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